Last Saturday - 9th Nov 2024 - I drove to Newcastle with my sister Sue. We grew up in Newcastle and were on a mission. We were also determined to visit places we knew in an immersive nostalgic experience. We had already invested an entire evening on line and on the phone finding an appropriate place to stay. We chose one on the superior grounds that it offered us 10% discount and a free bottle of wine. Win:win, we thought.
We arrived in good time and discovered that our room was across Osbourne Rd from the reception part of the hotel, in cool Jesmond. As we parked and unloaded, the street was filling with young men and many more young women wearing....very little. The hotel was surrounded by bars, restaurants and somewhere offering new teeth, relaxation and botox.
We climbed the steep stairs to the 3rd floor dragging our bags ‘n’ stuff behind us and fighting with the fire doors. Hundreds of them. The room was clean but sparce. The bottle of wine was there but no glasses. This was clearly the kind of establishment where you neck it.
Sauntering out for dinner, we requested glasses from the reception to be met with a blank stare. This was clearly a first.
This part of Jesmond is vibrant with students and others intent on having a good time and good times were being had. We ate at a wonderful byo ramen restaurant and were a bit embarrassed to find we were the only people with alcohol. Great food.
We repaired to a bar where martini espressos were 2 for the price of 1, well for heavens sake.
As we weaved home with our empty glasses we met two young men dressed as ....nurses? who were, they said, exploring their feminininitity through wine. I noticed they had a full bottle and we had empty glasses which seemed a coincidence made in heaven so we shared. They didn’t have glasses- it must be a thing. We chatted. What lovely people. I love Newcastle. We left them enjoying their femineity and climbed to bed.
The next day being Sunday we caught an excellent bus to the quayside market where we had breakfast and explored the stalls. I had local Craster kippers which are great value as they remind you about how good they are all day. We explored Art at the Baltic and walked for miles round the beautiful streets.
I had inadvertently forgotten to bring spare clothes so we shot up Northumberland St as of old and fixed that then hit what used to be The Chattery at Fenwicks where our mother took us for Viennese coffee at far too young an age. It overlooks Earl Grey’s monument (as in Earl Grey tea,) which shines a light if there is a fatal accident in town. Sue felt the need to order aristocratic and her beverage arrived under a posh tea cosy. Nice. I had what the monkeys drink.
That evening we met old friends- I had been in the same class as Joanne and Rob from our first day at school. Joannes husband Mick, who we all fancied like mad as teenagers, joined us too and Jan - Sue’s best friend and the daughter of my dad’s best friend. We had a strangely funny conversation about a lot of people we knew all of whom appeared to be dead. Are we the only ones left?
Of course, we missed the last bus home so had to walk back to the hotel. We were just congratulating ourselves on not having drunk too much when I tripped over a raiser paver and fell my length straight onto my hands and face. I lay there, unable to get up moaning “not now”. On inspection I wasn’t as bad as I could have been and looked at least as if I won the fight, but my dignity took a real knock. And I had stigmata.
The next day we went to St Mary’s lighthouse, just beyond Whitley Bay where my father used to drive to get some peace. Sometimes I asked to go with him. He just sat looking out to sea, watching the waves cover the causeway which is just what we did alongside some ancient bikers who fell to discussing chain sprocket casings or something so we moved on.
We went to Jan’s house where we were fed and watered to within an inch of our lives. I took my guitar to her spare room and had a bit of a sing. Like you do.
We all went to the Bridge Folk Club in Newcastle where Alisdair Paul and Amy Leach were performing and I got a floor spot. I’m pleased to have gone and Sam Baxter was there- he played at Rosslyn Court last November.
Getting into Newcastle is a nightmare- the roads! Basically, designers in the 70’s thought it a good idea to put intersecting motorways through the centre of town. Its terrifying and needs 1:1 coaching to avoid a major catastrophe or ending up in Gateshead. Fortunately I had soothing directions from Jan’s Donal ...”keep right, ignore the arsehole, you’re doing grand, keep right...now left left”
When we got back to the hotel it was full of police. Apparently, several guests had fallen to fighting but we had missed the entertainment. Classy place. Never trust a free bottle of wine offer....
On Tuesday morning we went back to Jans for a sing and tea. We picked up Chris from the station, Timothy Spall came off the same train, nice coat.
We were on a different mission this time. I left the group to a meal in a beautifully vaulted Italian restaurant and walked to NX venue on the Westgate Rd. I was to support the Libertines who had sold out the 2000 capacity venue. Met by Andy, who stage manages and also performs with them, I was allotted a dressing room, shared with the wonderful Evan Williams, who I know of old and 2 boy bands who did not think that sharing the room with me was part of the image they were going for; one had their vocal coach with them which was lovely. I discretely made myself scarce while they changed and again so they could have a vocal warm up. That was quite nice as Carl Barat found me and assured me that he would introduce my set. Then I found Gladys the giant dog and there was Peter Doherty all hugs and smiles.
When it came to my turn the stage manager, who I didn’t know, said “best get on with it”. The audience were talking and ignoring what was happening on stage, so I said “but Carl is going to introduce me!” – he replied that there wasn’t time but I insisted so he reluctantly trundled off only to return instantly-beaming, “Peter is on his way “. So that’s how I got an amazing introduction from Peter Doherty in my own home town ...then Carl arrived on stage too and I knew it was going to be ok! “She’s a Geordie”- ROAR!
I started with Bruce Springsteen’s “Dancing in the Dark”, but sang it slowly and with minor chords- and people joined in! what an experience. The audience weren’t expecting a little old lady to perform just before the Libertines so I just had to sing the wonderful “Older Ladies” a song by Donna Lou Stevens, a glorious, slightly rude song with a killer chorus and again, people joined in. My final song was the Newcastle anthem “The Keel Row” which is old, complex and fast- but I didn’t fluff it! Amazing.
I discussed the Springsteen song with Peter after and he pointed out that yes, it is about depression but the person wants out- “this gun’s for hire”. He’s right, of course. I still like the minor chords.
I went out into the audience to find my gang, the school friends, my sister and husband... lots of people recognised me and that was a hoot.
The Libertines were amazing. They sang and played brilliantly and interacted with the audience naturally and with humour. Someone bought Chris and I a drink. Then it was all over.
Hadn’t really factored in getting back and had to wait ages for a taxi. The taxis in Newcastle usually have a notice with their particular tariff for vomiting but this one’s usp was that it was a smoker’s car and I stank when I got out. Reminded me of being a barmaid at the Lochside pub in Newcastle.
Tired but happy, I fell into bed.
The drive home was unremarkable, I’m pleased to stay. If you have got this far, thank you for reading.
Still buzzing though...
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